|Name:||Grivel VLAD Twin Gate|
|Nose:||keylock + notch|
|Anti Crossload:||captive eye(s)|
|Dimensions:||Length: 122 mm|
Width: 79.5 mm
Rope Bearing Depth: 9.82 mm
Gate Opening: 15 mm
|Strength Ratings:||30 kN | 12 kN|
|Other Markings:||Laser: Patented Grivel (ratings) (fully loaded rigging plate and basket image) max load kN 27 Vlad | CE0123 UIAA121 EN12275:13Ⓑ EN362:2004/B 2020-03 01310|
|Batch Marking Location:||spine-right|
|Collection Criteria:||★ Mechanically Interesting|
★ Demonstrates a Discipline
★ Manufacturing, Engineering, or Design
|Summary:||integral rigging plate, multigate|
|Description & Commentary:|
A multi-gate carabiner with integral rigging plate. The Vlad is designed for use at a belay/rappel station, where many people/ropes are clipped into a single anchor - a typical configuration might have each part of the plate used by the climbing leader/guide, second climber/client, and the main belay/rappel rope.
Using a separate rigging plate places the plate perpendicular to the carabiner, so the Vlad has an additional advantage of aligning the plane of the carabiner and the plate. This avoids the need of a second carabiner when clipping directly to a bolt, which would otherwise cause the plate to sit improperly against the rock face.
As with other multi-gate carabiners, these provide additional security compared to a non-locking carabiner, but are friendlier to operate with gloved/cold fingers than traditional single-gate autolocking carabiners. The Vlad's wiregate should handle ice and debris well.
Multi-gate carabiners are relatively new to the vertical world, and the ways they can fail or be used inappropriately are not as well understood as with traditional carabiners. Clearly they provide additional security compared to non-locking carabiners, and certainly have their own advantages compared to nose-blocked locking carabiners - but ultimately the inner gate is merely well guarded by the outer gate and not prevented from opening.
For the intended purpose as a station carabiner which will be kept in sight (plus usually both loaded and within arms reach) of a human, the design seems plenty secure. The design is well liked by guides and big wall climbers.
Website photos and a 2018 trade show example show a slightly different design from the version shown here. These earlier versions were missing the reinforcing rib between the spine and the spine-most rigging hole (side‑by‑side comparison).
If anyone has information about this change or a physical copy of the ribless version, please contact me.
|Technical Notice:||Technical Notice|