Name: | Petzl Attache 3D Universo |
Category: | screw lock |
Locking Type: | manual |
Locks: | screw |
Unlock Style: | gate stopped |
Sleeve Rotation: | 720° (unlocked) | 1080° (maximum) |
Shape: | HMS |
Material: | aluminum |
Profile: | webbed I-Beam |
Nose: | keylock |
Nose Guard: | none |
Rivets: | domed |
Gate Shield: | relieved |
Anti Crossload: | other |
Weight: | 110 g |
Dimensions: | Length: 102 mm Width: 70 mm Depth (basket end): 10.56 mm Gate Opening: 21 mm |
Strength Ratings: | ![]() ![]() ![]() |
Other Markings: | Forged: Ⓗ PETZL ATTACHE 3D PAT.| (ratings) UIAA CE0082 Laser: 11119 IC6185 |
Summary: | belay device retainer and prominent gate-stop |
Description & Commentary: | Petzl calls this combination carabiner (an Attache 3d, 54g) and belay device (Verso 52g) the Universo. The Attache3D was offered separately as one of Petzl's first hot-forged redesigns of their well established (and well liked) carabiners. For many years, they offered the new I-Beam profile 3D version alongside the older round profile model, as the round profile can feed more smoothly and is longer wearing. The 3D retained the classic Attache shape, "Red-is-Dead" marker, debris clearning hole and aggressive sleeve knurling. Climbers appreciated the reduced weight and slim nose on remote climbs or at crowded belay stations, but many reported the redesigned gate with the distintive machined gate-stop jammed regularly after loading. The Verso's bail/tether is attached to a two-part nylon slider (5g) which rides along the Attache's hotforged spine. The slider may be disassembled by removing two screws, premitting the removal of the belay device from the carabiner. This also allows the Verso's high-friction setting to be oriented in relation to the carabiner gate according to the climber's preference. Although not as effective as other anti-crossloading devices, the cable stiffness combined with the restricted range of motion from the slider strongly encourages proper carabiner loading. This maximizes carainber strength by positioning the rope along the spine (irrlevant, as catastropic loads are basically impossible to reach when belaying with this style device) but more importantly this positions the rope over the best rope-bearing surface in the carabiner basket for smoother operation of the belay device. Anti-crossloading is far more useful to ensure smooth operation (and prevent gate-face loading) when belaying with a mechanical device such as the Petzl Grigri than when belaying with a traditional slotted-tube device. Additionally, the slider will prevent dropping the device on multi-pitch routes but one should already be loading rope into the belay device without removing it from the carabiner, and an inattentive climber can always drop both items! See Storrick's Vertical Devices for more info on the Verso. |
Relevant Patent: | US8261881 |