Pierre Allain (latchless) (v2b)

Pierre Allain
(latchless) (v2b)

Name:Pierre Allain (latchless) (v2b)
Locking Type:n/a
Unlock Style:n/a
Shape:asymmetric D
Gate Shield:none
Weight:65 g
Dimensions:Length: 108 mm
Width: 54.5 mm
Gate Opening: 18 mm
Strength Ratings:Major Axis: 1600 kg
Other Markings:Forged: P. ALLAIN 1600 Kg | BREVETTE S G D G
Collection Criteria:★ Historically Interesting or Iconic
Summary:non-load-bearing gate, early design
Description & Commentary:

Another example of the latchless design. The gate does not seem to fit as well as my first example, especially the left side.

Pierre Allain was one of the earliest carabiner manufacturers, selling out of his shop in France. This model only has slanted faces at the gate, not a hook & pin or similar arrangement to allow the gate to share load when the carabiner is subjected to a load.

In 1965 Pierre Allain started individual testing, marking a tested carabiner with a pyramid punch next to the rating. As this example lacks the distinctive square/pyramid mark I believe it to be produced prior to 1965. See the Pierre Allain (asymmetric D) for an example with the punch.

The excellent site Les Caffmeux has an image of the 1965 advertisement. Here is it translated into English (courtesy of Reddit user u/1_1_8_3):



This new carabiner (SGDG patented), made from a special light alloy [referring to 7000 series aluminum/zinc alloy marketed as "Zicral"], take its great resistance from its metal and the particular shape of its drawing that brings the point of support of the applied force very close to the main branch [carabiner spine], which reduce as much as possible the length of the leverage arm.

With its maximum lightness (65g) and its breaking load (1600kg), the carabiner PIERRE ALLAIN reaches unmatched performances.

As an additional security measure and to remove any part that could have an hidden structural defect, each carabiner is tested at half its breaking load (800kg), remaining below its yield point.

To avoid any mistake, a punch (small square pyramid) is automatically struck during the trial, next to the 1600kg indication, as a proof that it has been tested.

This way you can check this mark on your new carabiners, and also appreciate the quality of operation of their metal gates.

But BEWARE, to benefits from these advantages of operation and assurance, you have to ask your seller for the NEW CARABINER 1965, manufactured exclusively by PIERRE ALLAIN from URIAGE


EXCLUSIVE manufacturer of PIERRE ALLAIN 1956 carabiner, that was selected to equip the French expedition 1965 in Himalaya, PIERRE ALLAIN "Les Essarts" [a locality] Uriage (Isère)

Also, reports in the National Speleological Society (NSS) and Mountain Safety Research (MSR - yes that MSR) newsletters indicated that climbers had specifically experienced low-load failures of similar style of "carabiner" when loaded along the minor axis. Unlike those that failed, this example has a small stud on the gate, which may or may not provide additional minor axis strength.

Technically, without a load-bearing gate, I do not consider this a carabiner - rather a snap‑hook. But it's just too neat of an artifact to not include here.