A5
Grade VI (signed)

This is a basic oval produced by SMC for A5 Adventures, big wall climber & gear designer John Middendorf's climbing equipment company.

The design has a protruding nose, a definite step forward in oval carabiner design, but common since the 1970's when it was first developed. A few benefits of this feature:

• Adds strength to the gate side of the carabiner - more significant of an issue for the centrally loaded Oval designs than D shapes.
• Visually indicates gate orientation - more of an issue with ovals and symmetric D's than asymmetric D shaped carabiners.
• Easier clipping - the nose will more easily catch a rope, sling or piton eye (a feature regularly touted when carabiners first started sporting this design).
• Reduces the chance accidental gate opening by coming in direct contact with the rock or other object.

This example was generously donated to the collection by John - his signature is clearly visible, even if slightly worn in transit from Australia to California. In correspondance with John, he shared that the carabiners "cost $2 each in 1987 with a quantity of 5000."

The the markings are fairly detailed - a clear logo, serifed font with clear changes in stroke width. Interestingly, the 1990 A5 catalog (#3) lists strength as both 4000lbs and 2000kg.